Friuli-Venezia Giulia holidays

When I sat down in the Buffet da Pepi, I stood out because I wasn't standing. In Trieste, it's customary to stand at the bar for lunch, as you wolf down platefuls of pork and mountains of mustard. You're supposed to know which cut you want and how you want it served, leaving me feeling sheepish under the gaze of the busy waiter....

Trieste is not like the rest of Italy. Perched on the border with Slovenia, it's a mix of Italian flair and Balkan practicality. But it's a beautiful place and one I'd highly recommend visiting. It was winter when I arrived in Trieste. The wind carried with it the whisper of sleet and the soft scent of snow. The ground sparkled with the reflections of Christmas lights in the afternoon rain and the central square was surprisingly quiet....