...
...

Photo credit Pxhere and MatthiasKabel

Beware the Krampus on your Christmas market trip

“Let’s go to Salzburg for the Christmas markets”, I said. “Think how lovely and festive it’ll be.”

And so that’s what we did; blissfully unaware of the horrors that awaited us, in amongst Salzburg's breathtaking beauty.

Christmas, here we come

Flights and hotel booked for the first week in December, my sister and I set off for Austria’s fourth-largest city in buoyant Christmassy spirits. How could we not return home all ready to put up the tree and dig out those Christmas playlists? After all, this was the birthplace of the carol ‘Silent Night’, and a city which boasts festive markets selling anything and everything tenuously related to the season. And to top it all, it’s surrounded by snow-capped mountains - and lots of them (or hills, ‘alive with the sound of music’, if you’re Julie Andrews. Or Mozart.)

Festive fervour building on the journey, the city didn’t disappoint. Easy to navigate, suitably Christmassy, cold and stunningly beautiful. It had all the trademarks we were hoping for. Oozing history from its Baroque and medieval architecture, and countless church spires with snowy mountainous backdrops. Christkindlmarkt, Salzburg’s largest and oldest market, contained all the sparklingly intoxicating festiveness we craved. Wooden huts brimming over with decorations and gifts galore, imparting abundantly aromatic smells of roasted chestnuts, baked apples and hot punch. Within an hour I’d indulged in my first gluhwein (mulled wine) and apfelstrudel and felt pleasantly merry. Perfect.

Christmasily-sated, and ascending the winding Linzergasse back to our hotel on the first night, we were perplexed by occasional randomly huddled groups of people lining the street.

And that’s when it happened

“What’s that noise?” I asked, as raucous ringing, drumming and hollering rapidly approached. “Do you think there’s something going on?”

There was: The stuff of nightmares! 

Suddenly, and quite without warning, we were bombarded by hordes of petrifying beast-demon, mask-wearing hairy creatures with cowbells, chains, drums and “whipping sticks" - and they were charging down the street towards me! All possessing an apparent penchant to commit physical abuse, they were searching for perfectly unsuspecting 'victims'.

I'm not ashamed to admit, I've never been particularly keen on costumed characters - and now I was more than mildly perturbed. What's worse is that they didn't resemble people in the least, so it was very easy to suspend with reality in the momentary chaos. Not knowing which way to turn to get out of their way, I became an obvious target.

Whipping boy

One sensed my quickly-diminishing "bravado" as I floundered in the middle of the street, chased after and grabbed me in its hairy claws - and then bent me over, and proceeded to exuberantly whip my bottom with its stick!

Playing it cool had gone out of the window. Heart pounding, I struggled, broke free and half-ran up the nearest side street, only pausing when I was sure I was safe.

Deserted

Catching my breath, it was then that I realised I was alone - at some point during the commotion I'd completely deserted my sister. It didn’t take long to find her in a different side street, laughing but clearly relieved that she'd escaped unscathed. It took slightly longer for me to calm down and regain my composure before I could absorb what had just happened - and my slightly embarrassing reaction.

More perplexing was the huge amounts of joy others were deriving from it - as if they were meeting their celebrity heroes.

It was only later that we discovered these were Krampusse, figures from Alpine-region folklore who punish children who misbehave. And this was Krampusnacht (Krampus night) during the famed Krampus Run. I was just one of the unlucky bystanders who happened to get in their way.

My relief was short-lived as these creatures emerged all over the city centre during the next few days.

So if you’re planning to visit Salzburg during December, beware the Krampusse - or wear extra-thick pants!


Picture of Stuart

Posted by Stuart
on 7th September 2018 and
updated on 8th February 2021

Destinations

Austria Salzburg

Similar blog posts

From the UK's most popular travel bloggers

...

One day in Salzburg: top sights and day trip itinerary

18th January 2024 by The Travel Bunny

Salzburg, Austria is an enchanting city and a must-visit if you’re heading to the Austrian Alps. I adore Salzburg. It’s one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, packed with breathtaking Baroque architecture, a stunning Cathedral Quarter, hilltop fortress, palaces and museums. The city was the birthplace and home of famous composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and is sometimes known as the ‘city of music’. ...

...

Vienna Christmas Markets Food Guide

18th December 2023 by The World in My Pocket

The Christmas markets in Vienna are magical. Ever since my first visit to the city during the festive holidays, back in 2009, I felt that Vienna is where you can truly find the Christmas spirit. The city is decorated with so many lights, making it sparkle at night. There are large chandeliers leading the way from St Stephan’s Cathedral to the Rathaus Christmas market, street decorations, Christmas trees and wooden huts selling hot drinks along the way....

...

How to Spend a Perfect One Day in Salzburg

7th December 2023 by The World in My Pocket

I spent a perfect one day in Salzburg while touring Austria for ten days, and what a day it was! Salzburg is this snug, compact city that feels like a big, warm hug. Despite having lots to see and do, I like how Salzburg is small enough to explore in just one day....

...

Going green in Graz: Sustainable tourism in Austria’s second city

9th October 2023 by The Travel Bunny

Graz, known as Austria's greenest city, has wholeheartedly embraced sustainable tourism. During a recent visit, our travel blogger was impressed by the city's eco-friendly ethos and the positive impact it has on both locals and visitors alike....

...

A food lover’s guide to Graz, Austria’s culinary capital 

21st September 2023 by The Travel Bunny

Welcome to Graz, the culinary capital of Austria, a city that caters to the tastes of gourmets, gastronomes, and grazers alike. Graz boasts a vibrant food scene, with a plethora of restaurants, specialty shops, and local producers to explore. Whether you're craving traditional dishes or seeking out innovative culinary creations, Graz has something to satisfy every palate. So, let's embark on a gastronomic adventure and uncover the delectable delights that Graz has to offer....

...

The 10 Best Things To Do In The Wilder Kaiser Region, Austria

31st July 2023 by Bemused Backpacker

The Wilder Kaiser region in Austria is a breathtaking natural haven, celebrated for its winter sports and thrilling adventure opportunities throughout the year. With an abundance of attractions in this area, it can be challenging to decide where to begin. To help you make the most of your visit, here are ten top-notch activities to experience in the Wilder Kaiser region....

...

Things to do in Bregenz: Culture, Cake and Constance

19th July 2023 by Budget Traveller

Perched on the eastern shore of Lake Constance, Europe's third-largest freshwater lake, the city of Bregenz is surrounded by three countries - Germany, Switzerland and Austria....