I spent two weeks in Sr Lanka, now I think I am an expert

Obviously (I hope obviously) I am not quite so arrogant as to think I've got Sri Lanka sussed. I do, however, have some general impressions ranging from the weather to the economy.

Sri Lanka immediately appears like a country going somewhere. There is a lot of building going on, roads are in good condition (except where they are barely roads, but then there is often evidence of development taking place). There are Early Childhood Learning centers everywhere, the streets are relatively litter free and there is a sense of relative order and safety. It makes for a very positive first impression. Anecdotally (among our guesthouse owners - not the most diverse poll granted) taxes are crippling high, but the money is being spent fairly and well. All these observations of a country starting to do well are supported by the fact that Sri Lanka has been an early achiever, or is on track to achieve, many of the Millennium Development Goals. 

Not to paint too rose-tinted a view of it all. There are some important Millennium Development Goals, like halving hunger, which Sri Lanka is not going to meet. There is also some discrepancy between government reports and the reports by civil society organisations. Crucially a lot of the issues facing Sri Lanka are more structural and associated with post-conflict recovery. Such things are not going to be obvious to the casual holiday maker.

Our interactions with people, from restaurant staff to strangers on the bus, have been overwhelmingly positive. People have been willing (and over eager) to help, not unbearably pushy and often times seemingly genuinely curious. A blank stare as you walk along the street is quickly broken with a smile and a quiet "hello".

On a far more trivial note, Sri Lanka smells nice. It is one of the first things I noticed. There is often a heavy scent of incense, even in the middle of Colombo. Then there are the cooking smells, spicy and hunger inducing. Of course, there is the occasional off note. The sting of gasoline, the pungent order from the drying fish. These pass quickly however and you are usually rewarded for taking deep breaths.

Around the towns is jungle (and usually it is in the towns too). The jungle is wild and it looks like it will reclaim the town at any moment. A feeling that is enhanced after seeing how the jungle has swallowed the ruins of Sri Lanka's ancient kingdoms. Sri Lanka has wildlife too. The wildlife of make believe. We stumbled across a pair of elephants splashing around on the far shore of a lake, a green turtle munching seaweed, monkeys (after a million photos) have become passé and we were regularly escorted home by the fantastical glowing tails of fireflies. While I wouldn't recommend Sri Lanka for your next city break, the landscape is a different story. Broad plains densely covered in banana trees, coconut palms and Jungle Book-esq vines are broken up by singular hills. The vistas from which are spectacular.

Generally the towns we visited were not attractive. While some were very prettily situated (Kandy and Ella in particular), an exploratory wander down a side street did not lead to curious discoveries. Rather, uniformly grey, haphazard, cement structures with steel rods sticking out, presumably for optional third levels, provided narrow shop fronts. These shops were generally clutter-full of plastic wares. A seemingly endless supply of cheap kitchen scales, wind-up toys and buckets.

Perhaps most troubling for us in most of the towns we visited was the lack of places to hangout. We could not find a town square, a park, a tea house, a cafe, a bar or restaurant (beyond the in-out establishments dishing up delicious kottu or rice and curry, but which did not invite lingering) that wasn't created for the seemingly sole use of tourists. Apart from staff, Sri Lankan people were conspicuously absent from these places. This rather defeats the goal of taking the measure of Sri Lanka through people watching. Instead we became more conversant with the ways of Russian package holiday sun seekers. It, therefore, raises the question - where do Sri Lankan people go for their leisure time? We weren't able to find an answer for this. There are indicators that, at least for part of society, there is some leisure time and discretionary income. Beauty salons, for example, were advertised in most towns, as were photography studios, there are betting shops everywhere, a burgeoning chain of KFC and in the Cultural Triangle we encountered bus loads of domestic tourists. Hence, we left feeling that we missed something.

The views belie the diversity of Sri Lanka's regions. In the short time we were there it felt like we travelled to three different countries. The hot, dusty Central Region; the cool, misty plantations of the hills; and the tropical idyll of the South Coast.

The post on the Cultural Triangle more or less covers the Central Region, so I won't go over that again.

Hill country was a welcome reprieve from the stifling heat of the Central Region. It is also where we started to encounter tourists and a tourist industry. In Ella we were able to shift pace a little. No longer needing to get all the day's exertion out of the way before the heat of the day set in, and having somewhere at the end of the day to mull over our experiences with a cold beer, something more like holiday mode began to kick in.

In hill country we also discovered intriguing micro-climates. A walk out to World's End through the moors of Horton's Plains National Park felt like we had been transported to Scotland. While a trek to Ella Rock looked, smelt and sounded so much like the Australian bush that I was seriously disoriented when we stumbled back into tea plantations. With waterfalls, hidden temples and a gently accommodating, but not over the top, tourist industry, it was very easy to wile away sometime in the hills.

Finally, the bit Sri Lanka is most famous for. The beaches of the South Coast. Turquoise water, palm tree lined, yellow sand beaches and low prices. The exact combination that leads to a lot of European tourists and a string of want-to-be reggae bars with their foremost tables paddling in the waves at high tide. 

These beaches could be anywhere in the world (not such a problem if you are just looking for a beach holiday). In stark contrast to our earlier travels, where we were often the only foreigners, the only locals on the beach were the occasional group of young men surfing or adopting that beach bum cool of coastal locals. The other thing missing was Sri Lankan food. Menu after menu offered the bland, unchallenging international diet of pizza, pasta and noodles. I found myself missing the rapid "bang, bang, bang" of kottu being prepared.

Depending on which beach you choose, it is still possible to avoid gross overdevelopment. In Mirissa the bars extend their presence right to the water's edge, but the buildings are unobtrusive. The pace is extremely laid-back, as befitting a beach holiday and there is still some space to spread your towel and do your own thing. This is less the case in Unawatuna where the military style precision with which sun lounges are ranged along the beach kills any sense of escapism. Still, the streets around the beach are interesting to wander around and it is very easy to hold up in a cafe overlooking the waves. Further North, Hikkaduwa is an example of what I can only hope Unawatuna and Mirissa do not become. Large concrete buildings built as close to the sea as possible makes the beach look like an after thought, or that strip they just couldn't quite build on. It is sad because it is easy to see this once would have been a spectacular coastline.

If you like your beaches unadulterated, this isn't for you. If you are partial to a sun lounge and a cold beer at the raise of an eyebrow, you'll be in heaven. I have mixed feelings. It has the elements of a tropical paradise and writing this under the shade of a palm tree, listening to the waves crash it is difficult to hold any thought, except that of deep satisfaction with life.


Picture of Follow Me East

Posted by Follow Me East
on 24th October 2014

Destinations

Sri Lanka

Similar blog posts

From the UK's most popular travel bloggers

...

This week's successes: 17th March 2024

18th March 2024 by Stuart

It’s been a lucky week for six new winners this week, two of them called Alison... What are the chances? New winners Alison 1 found out she’d won a 10-night Mediterranean cruise with Oceania Cruises: “Didn’t quite believe it at first but absolutely delighted now that it’s been confirmed.” Alison 2 was a winner in Sunday Times’ popular “Where Was I?” competition and will be enjoying a 2-night stay in the Peak District at the Buxton Crescent Ensana Health Spa...

...

Three Reasons to take a Cruise to Sri Lanka

10th January 2024 by Pack the PJs

Sri Lanka is a tropical paradise just waiting to be explored, so there’s no wonder that it’s a popular addition to travel bucket lists. With its rich history, diverse wildlife and breathtaking landscapes, the country offers a combination of attractions that can be hard to find elsewhere. While there are various ways to embark on your Sri Lankan adventure, choosing to visit as part of a cruise can make for an easy and stress-free experience. Without the worry of finding accommodation in each...

...

Our 2 week Sri Lanka itinerary: coast to coast with kids 

24th September 2023 by Tin Box Traveller

Looking for inspiration to plan your family's Sri Lanka itinerary? Look no further! Our 2-week adventure takes you from coast to coast, with plenty of exciting activities for the kids. Explore ancient temples, encounter incredible wildlife, relax on stunning beaches, and make sure to schedule some downtime to avoid any meltdowns....

...

Diary of an 11 Day Tour of Sri Lanka

21st September 2023 by Pack the PJs

In August, our travel blogger embarked on an unforgettable 11-day journey through the captivating landscapes of Sri Lanka. This extraordinary adventure was meticulously crafted by Luxtripper, ensuring every moment was filled with awe and wonder. Join us as we share our diary, chronicling the highlights of this remarkable escapade....

...

Flying SriLankan Airlines to Sri Lanka and the Maldives

21st September 2023 by Pack the PJs

They embarked on their journey to the Maldives by flying with SriLankan Airlines from London Heathrow, with a layover in Sri Lanka. The entire trip consisted of four flights, and here's their honest review of the experience!...

...

8 Cultural Gems of Colombo

13th July 2023 by Two Monkey's Travel

Exploring Colombo (now Sri Jayewardenepura Kotte) is a must if you are travelling to Sri Lanka by plane. You will be able to enjoy the delicious seafood cuisine, beautiful culture and friendly hospitality of the locals. Furthermore, getting there is not difficult. You can easily travel there and have a wonderful time using Srilankan......

...

9 Best Waterfalls in Sri Lanka

8th March 2023 by The World in My Pocket

The picturesque island nation of Sri Lanka is home to some of the most breathtaking landscapes. Swimming in the waterfalls of Sri Lanka should be at the top of your list of things to do! The verdant rainforest in the mountainous centre of the country conceals a plethora of remarkable waterfalls. In fact, Sri Lanka is home to some of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, ranging from the majestic Bambarakanda Falls to the awe-inspiring Diy...